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You have made a good decision in purchasing a Hydrogenator.
Properly installing and using this device will make a significant contribution
to both your own well-being and the well-being of the world you live in.
For Winter/Summer installation and operational parameters CLICK HERE.
Getting started: Note!
If you are installing the Hydrogenator on a diesel
engine you must route the HHO transmission hose to a location UPSTREAM of the
turbo, that is, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo, in the air-intake
cowling, or into the mouth of the air intake cowling, if you can access it.
You should begin by determining where you want to locate the Hydrogenator in/on your vehicle. Then determine a path to route the HHO hose and electrical wires from the Hydrogenator device to the engine compartment. You should remember that you will most likely want to run the hose and wires together along a frame member or other similar undervehicle location where you can attach mechanic's wire or plastic ties to hold them in place. You MUST keep both the HHO transfer hose and electrical wire at least 12" from the exhaust pipes and exhaust manifold to prevent them from burning, shorting, or melting.
For inside-vehicle, in-trunk,
in-truck-bed, or in-commercial-cargo-bay installations:
Once you have
determined where you want to locate your Hydrogenator, find a place where you
can drill one 3/4" hole for the HHO transfer hose and one 3/8" hole for
electrical leads to the engine compartment. Drill through the vehicle deck to
the underside of the vehicle. Make sure you stay clear of the fuel tank, brake
lines, and any other obstructions which would make it difficult for you to push
or pull the HHO transfer hose and electrical wires through the holes you have
drilled. Then either push or pull the HHO transmission hose through the 3/4"
hole you drilled, providing enough slack in the hose and wires near the Hydrogenator to
allow you to re-position it conveniently when you want to fill/re-fill the
electrolyte in the reservoir. You might want to wrap the transmission Hose with
duct tape or apply appropriate size split wire loom where it passes through the
vehicle deck in order to reduce the possibility of eventual wear on the HHO
transmission hose.
Then push or pull the electrical wires through the 3/8" hole. It also might be a good idea to cover all the electrical wires with wire loom or electrical tape where they may rub against the side of the drilled holes to protect them from possible wear and shorting.
You can bundle the hose and wires together under the vehicle to make it easier to tie them up to and secure them along a frame member in the direction of the engine compartment.
Locate an area on your air-intake cowling as near the air-intake termination at the throttle throat as you can conveniently access (On diesel engines, you MUST input the HHO transmission hoses UPSTREAM from the turbo, that is, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo). Drill a 7/16" hole. ( We suggest you remove the air-intake, or move it to a position where drilling debris won't fall into the throttle throat or intake manifold.) Re-attach the air-intake cowling and screw a 1/4" NPT (threaded) x 3/8" hose barb (provided with our Hydrogenator installation kit) into the 7/16" hole you drilled in the air-intake cowling. There is no need to over-tighten the fitting(s). If you strip the threads or have trouble satisfactorily affixing the fitting into the air-intake cowling, you can clean/de-grease the area around the hole(s) and use any good plastic glue, epoxy, Sumo Glue, Gorilla Glue, or adhesive caulk, etc., to secure the hose barb.
Attach the HHO transmission hose to the hose barb you attached to your air-intake cowling using an appropriate hose clamp (provided). You might doublecheck to be sure you have chosen a route for the hose and wire that will avoid the hot exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes as well as avoiding any moving mechanisms that would entangle, crimp, or rub the hose. Again, it would be a good idea to follow the same path as the electrical wires so the hose and the wires can be bundled with electrical or duct tape as you attach and support them with plastic ties and/or mechanics wire as they traverse along the vehicle framework between the location of the Hydrogenator and the engine compartment. You will want to separate the electrical wires and the HHO hose when they reach the engine compartment. The HHO hose will need to reach the engine airbox/air-intake cowling. The green ground wire will need to be attached to the ground post of the vehicle battery. The red wire from the Hydrogenator will need to be installed into an existing circuit in the vehicle fuse box.
Locate your vehicle fuse box. Find a fused circuit that turns on/off with the ignition key.
NOTE!
Remove the fuse and insert a piggyback circuit tap like the one that is provided in our installation kits.
ATO/ATC Type Circuit Tap
Minifuse Type Circuit Tap
Insert the fuse you removed from the fuse box into the lower socket of the piggyback circuit tap, then insert a fuse provided in our optional installation kit into the top socket of the piggyback circuit tap (7.5 amp for one cell, 15 amp for two cells, or 25 amp for a three cell Hydrogenator). Then insert the piggyback circuit tap into the fuse socket in the fuse box from which you extracted the original fuse. Then insert the red wire extending from the Hydrogenator location into the butt connector on the red wire extending from the circuit tap and crimp it firmly into place. Then return to the Hydrogenator and crimp the other end of the red wire into the butt connector extending from the +(positive) post on the dry cell(s) of the Hydrogenator; then crimp the other end of the green wire attached to the ground post of the vehicle battery into the butt connector connected to the -(negative) post on the dry cell(s) of the Hydrogenator. This will allow you to turn the electrical power to the Hydrogenator on/off with the ignition key.
NOTE!
On hybrid vehicles, tap into a fused circuit that is hot only when the internal combustion engine is running, so that the Hydrogenator is not producing HHO when the internal combustion engine is not running.
IMPORTANT!
The Hydrogenator is
designed to operate as a "closed", dual-feed electrolyte circulating system in
order for the electrolyte to circulate under pressure and to assist the HHO gas
to exit the system in the hose that will transmit the HHO to the engine. When
replenishing the electrolyte, be sure to tighten the filler cap tight enough to
prevent HHO gases and the circulating pressure from escaping. Finger tightening
is usually sufficient, but if you have trouble with HHO or liquid leakage, you
can use plumber's grease or petroleum jelly or teflon tape in the threads of the
filler spout to stop any leaks. You can use soapy water sprayed or dolloped
around the filler cap threads while the Hydrogenator is running to ensure they
are not leaking.
Notice: Electrolyte Mixing Info. The Hydrogenator device has a remarkable range of operational parameters. We
strongly recommend that you do not exceed a maximum of 1 ounce (about 28
grams)of potassium hydroxide (about 1 level teaspoon of potassium hydroxide
flakes/powder) per liter/quart of distilled water. Stir the mixture to help
dissolve the KOH, then let the mixture sit, uncontained/uncapped, for about 20
minutes before adding the mixture to the Hydrogenator device. The normal loss of
water and warming of the electrolyte due to use will gradually increase the
concentration of KOH and gradually increase the amperage draw as the water
depletes from the electrolyte. The inline fusing, factory installed into each
unit, is intended to cap the amperage draw at an acceptable level, and avoid
overheating and warping the super dry cells. Upsizing the fuses can cause
overheating of the dry cells and reservoirs and VOID the Hydrogenator
warranty.
Always pour the water
into your plastic mixing container first,
then add the potassium hydroxide (KOH) to the distilled water. Adding the
distilled water to the potassium hydroxide may cause an instant boiling or
splatter upon making the initial contact between the two substances. Always wear
eye protection, long sleeves, and gloves when mixing your electrolyte. Be
thoughtful and safe.
A 50% depletion of the water in the reservoir will result in a near doubling of the strength of the KOH in the liquid. We HIGHLY recommend that you don't let the electrolyte liquid deplete below 50% of the original amount of the liquid electrolyte when you filled the reservoir. When replenishing the existing electrolyte, use only plain distilled water. Using the remainder of any pre-mixed electrolyte as replenishment water will continually over-strengthen the concentration of KOH and cause the fuses to blow or overheat the dry cells and reservoirs and VOID the Hydrogenator warranty.
ALWAYS PRE-MIX the electrolyte in an open plastic container when adding denatured alcohol to the potassium hydroxide and distilled water for your winter mix. Let the mixture sit, uncontained/uncapped, for about 20 minutes before adding the mixture to the Hydrogenator reservoir.
The Hydrogenator, like other pieces of equipment utilizing H2O that is exposed to below freezing elements, must be protected from freezing hard during cold weather. This can be accomplished by adding denatured or isopropyl alcohol to the distilled water and KOH mixture in order to achieve a 5% to 20% alcohol solution. A 5% solution (about 8 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 10º F.. A 10% solution (about 13 liquid oz. per U.S gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 0º F.. A 15% solution (about 21 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -15º F.. A 20% solution (about 28 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -25º F.
For below-freezing initial start-up: Mix 1 gallon distilled water, denatured alcohol (8 to 28 liquid oz.), and potassium hydroxide, 1 oz. by weight, (28 grams, or 1 level teaspoon), in an open container. Stir well to assure the KOH is thoroughly dissolved, then let the mixture sit open for 20 minutes before closing or transferring the mixture to a closed container. There may be an initial reaction causing the mixture to get slightly warm and expand, so keep the mixing container open to accommodate the heating and expansion, before capping the mixing container or adding the mixture to the reservoir.
When the Hydrogenator requires replenishing of the electrolyte for continued below-freezing operation, be sure to include 8 to 28 liquid ounces of denatured alcohol (per your expected ambient temperatures) with each gallon of distilled water to maintain the 5% to 20% alcohol solution.
For initial electrolyte fill-up:
Add the distilled water and potassium hydroxide mixture (with or without denatured alcohol, per the weather conditions), filling to about 80% of the capacity of the electrolyte reservoir. Do not overfill. As the electrolyte warms when current is passed through it, it expands and gasifies. So leave room for expansion. Whether using a Summer or Winter electrolyte mix, ALWAYS pre-mix the electrolyte in an open plastic container and let it settle 20 minutes before adding the mix to the Hydrogenator reservoir.
As you fill the reservoir with electrolyte you will see the electrolyte liquid rise into the two circulating hoses leading from the super dry cells back to the reservoir. You can use the level in the recirculating hoses to guage the level of liquid in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir until the liquid in the recirculating hoses is about 1" to 1-1/2" below the top surface of the reservoir.
Some of the internal components of the HHO generating super cells need to "season" for 10 to 12 hours of usage before they reach their expected output. Several sessions of use, then non-use, will be necessary to "season" those components. By running the Hydrogenator om your vehicle alternator/battery, your in-dash voltmeter should drop about 1.5 volts from its maximum reading when the device is warm and working well.
Once again, when freezing weather approaches, begin adding alcohol to prevent the device from freezing hard.
Always use an open plastic container when mixing the denatured or isopropyl alcohol and the potassium hydroxide into the distilled water, then let it sit for 20 minutes for any warming reaction to spend itself. You can purchase the denatured alcohol at any well supplied lumber or hardware store....in the paint department .....located with paint thinners, etc. You can purchase pure, food grade, potassium hydroxide (KOH) from our website. A 1/2lb. container of KOH can last you several years.
Do NOT use ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) in the electrolyte. It will coat and clog the interior electrolyzing components inside the HHO generating super dry cells and greatly reduce the generating efficiency of the Hydrogenator, or even prevent the generation of HHO altogether. Using ethylene glycol in the electrolyte will void your warranty.
How often you will need to replenish the electrolyte depends upon the amount of driving you do.
You should check the electrolyte usage every 20 to 30 hours of driving. If you use local tap water, as opposed to distilled water, you may eventually clog or coat the stainless steel plates in the super dry cells with mineral deposits that may precipitate and settle from the mineral content of the local water supply. We strongly recommend distilled water for consistency and best long-term performance of the Hydrogenator. Using local, undistilled water, will void your warranty.
NOTICE!
Use plain distilled water (+ alcohol, in winter freezing
conditions) for your replacement water. If the HHO output diminishes over time,
you can occasionally add very small amounts (Less than ¼ teaspoon) of KOH per
liter/quart to your replacement water to rejuvenate the electrolyte.
We thank you for your patronage and wish you well in the future.
The Folks at:
Hydrogenator
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